Best Wineries in the 209

Lodi is the Zinfandel Capital of the World and it is not a marketing line. The appellation grows more Zinfandel than anywhere else in California, some of it from vines planted in the 1880s and 1890s that are still producing, and it carries more than 85 tasting rooms. Murphys, two hours east and 2,000 feet up, is the opposite experience: one historic Main Street with more walkable pours per block than most of Napa, and none of the attitude.

Those two centers explain most of this list. Nineteen of these wineries sit in and around Lodi, where the style runs from old-vine reds at Klinker Brick and Macchia to genuinely unconventional whites at Acquiesce, which pours Grenache Blanc, Picpoul and Roussanne and nothing else. Bokisch built its reputation on Spanish varieties because Lodi's Mediterranean climate suits Albarino and Tempranillo better than it suits Chardonnay. Six more are in Murphys and the Calaveras foothills, where Gossamer Cellars is a small-lot boutique tasting room and Lavender Ridge pours Rhone-style wines in an old stone building alongside a real cheese counter.

What to expect practically. Lodi is a drive-between-wineries region and you need a car, a plan and a designated driver. Murphys is the one place in the 209 where you can park once and walk the whole day. Tasting fees here are a fraction of coastal California, and at the smaller rooms on this list the person pouring is often the person who made the wine, which makes questions worth asking. Several Murphys rooms are closed early in the week, and harvest, roughly mid-August through October, is both the best time to visit and the busiest.

A few of these are more than tasting rooms. Ironstone runs wine caves, gardens and an amphitheatre that books national touring acts. Estate Crush in downtown Lodi will let you make your own barrel. Heritage Oak has walking trails down to the Mokelumne. Dancing Fox bakes its own stone-milled bread and brews its own beer. Every winery here was verified against live Places data, and we recheck ratings and closures periodically rather than trusting a list we built once.